|
|
Lebanon
2007 see Rock
Climbing Atlas, Middle East for info on climbs in Lebanon, which not only
has some nice looking crags, both sport and trad, but also world famous caves.
Wynand Groenewegen says "I have been climbing in Lebanon just before
the (short) war of 2006. The routes have mainly been put up by the army. These
days one of the local climbing clubs continue to develop them. The area is
very beautiful but the routes are short. You have to come to Lebanon for the
nature and the people, not especially for the climbing. Syria is much better.....but
having said this, we had a very good and interesting time when we were there.
You will find all the information you need to know in our 'Rock Climbing Atlas
to Greece and the Middle East'. We have also included maps."
The new Lebanon Mountain Trail opened in summer 2007, extending 400km, north
to south, see Lebanon Trail.
LIBYA
2004. Ginger Fullen, in his bid to climb every African country's
highest summit attempted to reach Libya's high point in the northern Tibesti
in 2003 but was foiled by running out of water and supplies approaching from
Chad through "crazy, mad, weird terrain… miles of pinnacles and
deep gorges bar the way. Nothing like Emi Koussi in the Tibesti massif".
For info on eastern Libya, see notes on south west Egypt above.
MADAGASCAR March 2007 See John and Anne Arran's article on
Tsaranoro and the sea cliffs in CLIMBER
Feb 2007.
The scene in Camp Catta beneath the Tsaranoro Towers is fine with more new
routes every year.Gargitter Helmut emailed Nov 2005 to say " I read your
article about Madagascar. The route Gondwanaland is still 7b+ and 7a+ obligatory.
The route has only 2 repetitions and all climbers (an Italian group from Brescia
and Arnaud Petit ) said that the route is 7a+ obligatory and if you climb
all free, then 7b+."
Gilles Gautier who is pleased to
host climbers dedicating their time and energy to set new 'human' lines: lines
opened to a large number of climbers. Great short lines have been opened offering
more variety than the 'athletes-only' big wall routes! The manager of nearby
Andringitra National Park has been jailed with his financial director for
helping themselves to the Park Cash Box! Up North, the season 2001 has been
extremely active, with around 100 new pitches bolted, in the French 6 and
7 grades. The spot will become a 'must' for tropical climbing and despite
the tense political situation (2002), Gilles hopes to maintain his camp on
the islands from April to December. Close to 200 climbers went in 2001 and
many more are welcome. The exceptional potential of those cliffs also allows
natural protection on new routes - see Piola's articles in French mags.
Check out: http://www.madamax.com/newsearoc/
Also, click on Madagascar.
Here's a comment we received on our notes on 'climbing ethics' on Madagascar
main page: "Excellent page about Madagascar, you have quite inspired
us - but maybe after present troubles are over. (Hoggar update interesting
too.) Anyway, Alan really doesn't have a problem with bolts and power drills,
as long as the resulting route is a good "work" in whatever style
it is done. We both think it important that there should be space for both
bolted routes and "terrain d'aventure", that bolts should not just
take over everywhere and destroy natural lines etc. But not too much problem
with bolts as such, or with bolts in wilderness specifically. Important that
climbers should agree among ourselves when areas should be kept as terrain
d'aventure. That's it really!" Kate & Alan
MALI
Dec 2005 - Jan 2006 We were in Mali for 6 weeks, travelling the country,
trekking in Hombori and Dogon Country and at a Dogon Festival and the Desert
Festival 50km beyond Timbuktu. Varied country, fascinating cultures. See Mali
for more info.
MOROCCO
October 2005, Taghia,Twid Turner (contact
at Plas-yBrenin, Wales)and friends climbed in the magnificent Taghia Canyons
- are they the first Brits there since we climbed there in 1979? Also see
North
Face website re their 2006 trip. The French & Spanish are still putting
up lots of good routes. For more info on these areas, click on Morocco.
Also click here for info on entry to Morocco
from Spain.
Nov 2007 New Guidebook A new edition in
the Rock Climbing Atlas series:
South Western Europe & Morocco is now for sale for €32.50. New info
on Taghia by Kevin Thaw in 2007 Alpine Journal.
Jan 2008 We just received the following links on guiding
for trekking, climbing and canyoning and Berber Experience which may be of
use:Mr Mohamed Bouinbaden
based in Imlil, under Toubkal, but covering the whole Atlas, see website,
http://www.imlil.ma/.
Feb 08
Latest Todra Article in website of UKclimbing.com
and an interesting article
on Todra.
July 08 Info on climbing at Tafraoute in
Alpine Club Newsletter, with two
links: Annergui and climbing
info & topos Also see our pages on Morocco
which we have been visiting since 1962.
Taghia 08: Check out Dave Pickford’s article on Planet
Fear:Taghia
Hijinks also Andy Cave who did some did some Arnaud Petit routes that
he says were mind blowing, contacted us to say Christian Ravier’s topo
is brilliant. Andy got his via the Desnivel
site He also recommends an overview of the impact increased
visits on Taghia are having.
NEPAL
Dec 2004 We were invited on a trek round the Annapurna Circuit
with friends. Billed as "possibly the best long distance walk in the
world" we had always wanted to do it but thoughts of crowds of trekkers
put us off. However, in December 04 there were just about none so we had the
trail to ourselves. Maybe it was partly the time of year, but more likely
the Maoist insurgency threat is putting people off. We met none. Do it now
whilst it's quiet! For a first class Sherpa company, contact Nima at Cho
Oyu Trekking
NEPAL Dec 2011 The same two friends asked us to join
them again to trek up the Khumbu to Tengboche below Everest and follow that
with another trek in the Annapurna massif. Once again we had great weather
(chilly at night of course) and met very few other trekkers. Cho
Oyu Trekking organised everything superbly once again - definitely recommended!
NORWAY
2007 - The Troll Wall. See our guide to Classic Norway.
Climbs, Scrambles and Walks in Romsdal, 2005, Cordee.
Writing in the Alpine Club Newsletter, Anders Lundahl reports that following
the many massive rock falls in the past 10 years, few routes have been climbed.
Our 1965 route (The Rimmon Route) was altered considerably as were other nearby
routes though the Swedish Route has been climbed since (2002 and 2003). Trollkjerringa
is extremely loose in the upper pitches making a new line necessary at A2/3
(1999). Trolldom awaits a second ascent. Locals say the whole centre section
of the wall is dangerous. The classic Nowegian Route on the left side of the
wall is now graded 5.10. 2011, Tony's Troll Wall book
(see publications)
was published and is getting good reviews.
Continue
Back
|
|