HOTSTUFF 2 (continued)

Lebanon 2007 see Rock Climbing Atlas, Middle East for info on climbs in Lebanon, which not only has some nice looking crags, both sport and trad, but also world famous caves. Wynand Groenewegen says "I have been climbing in Lebanon just before the (short) war of 2006. The routes have mainly been put up by the army. These days one of the local climbing clubs continue to develop them. The area is very beautiful but the routes are short. You have to come to Lebanon for the nature and the people, not especially for the climbing. Syria is much better.....but having said this, we had a very good and interesting time when we were there. You will find all the information you need to know in our 'Rock Climbing Atlas to Greece and the Middle East'. We have also included maps."
The new Lebanon Mountain Trail opened in summer 2007, extending 400km, north to south, see Lebanon Trail.

LIBYA 2004. Ginger Fullen, in his bid to climb every African country's highest summit attempted to reach Libya's high point in the northern Tibesti in 2003 but was foiled by running out of water and supplies approaching from Chad through "crazy, mad, weird terrain… miles of pinnacles and deep gorges bar the way. Nothing like Emi Koussi in the Tibesti massif". For info on eastern Libya, see notes on south west Egypt above.

MADAGASCAR March 2007 See John and Anne Arran's article on Tsaranoro and the sea cliffs in CLIMBER Feb 2007.
The scene in Camp Catta beneath the Tsaranoro Towers is fine with more new routes every year.Gargitter Helmut emailed Nov 2005 to say " I read your article about Madagascar. The route Gondwanaland is still 7b+ and 7a+ obligatory. The route has only 2 repetitions and all climbers (an Italian group from Brescia and Arnaud Petit ) said that the route is 7a+ obligatory and if you climb all free, then 7b+."
Gilles Gautier who is pleased to host climbers dedicating their time and energy to set new 'human' lines: lines opened to a large number of climbers. Great short lines have been opened offering more variety than the 'athletes-only' big wall routes! The manager of nearby Andringitra National Park has been jailed with his financial director for helping themselves to the Park Cash Box! Up North, the season 2001 has been extremely active, with around 100 new pitches bolted, in the French 6 and 7 grades. The spot will become a 'must' for tropical climbing and despite the tense political situation (2002), Gilles hopes to maintain his camp on the islands from April to December. Close to 200 climbers went in 2001 and many more are welcome. The exceptional potential of those cliffs also allows natural protection on new routes - see Piola's articles in French mags.
Check out: http://www.madamax.com/newsearoc/ Also, click on Madagascar.
Here's a comment we received on our notes on 'climbing ethics' on Madagascar main page: "Excellent page about Madagascar, you have quite inspired us - but maybe after present troubles are over. (Hoggar update interesting too.) Anyway, Alan really doesn't have a problem with bolts and power drills, as long as the resulting route is a good "work" in whatever style it is done. We both think it important that there should be space for both bolted routes and "terrain d'aventure", that bolts should not just take over everywhere and destroy natural lines etc. But not too much problem with bolts as such, or with bolts in wilderness specifically. Important that climbers should agree among ourselves when areas should be kept as terrain d'aventure. That's it really!" Kate & Alan

MALI Dec 2005 - Jan 2006 We were in Mali for 6 weeks, travelling the country, trekking in Hombori and Dogon Country and at a Dogon Festival and the Desert Festival 50km beyond Timbuktu. Varied country, fascinating cultures. See Mali for more info.

MOROCCO October 2005, Taghia,Twid Turner (contact at Plas-yBrenin, Wales)and friends climbed in the magnificent Taghia Canyons - are they the first Brits there since we climbed there in 1979? Also see North Face website re their 2006 trip. The French & Spanish are still putting up lots of good routes. For more info on these areas, click on Morocco. Also click here for info on entry to Morocco from Spain.
Nov 2007 New Guidebook A new edition in the Rock Climbing Atlas series: South Western Europe & Morocco is now for sale for €32.50. New info on Taghia by Kevin Thaw in 2007 Alpine Journal.
Jan 2008 We just received the following links on guiding for trekking, climbing and canyoning and Berber Experience which may be of use:Mr Mohamed Bouinbaden based in Imlil, under Toubkal, but covering the whole Atlas, see website, http://www.imlil.ma/.
Feb 08
Latest Todra Article in website of UKclimbing.com and an interesting article on Todra.
July 08 Info on climbing at Tafraoute in Alpine Club Newsletter, with two links: Annergui and climbing info & topos Also see our pages on Morocco which we have been visiting since 1962.
Taghia 08: Check out Dave Pickford’s article on Planet Fear:Taghia Hijinks also Andy Cave who did some did some Arnaud Petit routes that he says were mind blowing, contacted us to say Christian Ravier’s topo is brilliant. Andy got his via the Desnivel site He also recommends an overview of the impact increased visits on Taghia are having.

NEPAL Dec 2004 We were invited on a trek round the Annapurna Circuit with friends. Billed as "possibly the best long distance walk in the world" we had always wanted to do it but thoughts of crowds of trekkers put us off. However, in December 04 there were just about none so we had the trail to ourselves. Maybe it was partly the time of year, but more likely the Maoist insurgency threat is putting people off. We met none. Do it now whilst it's quiet! For a first class Sherpa company, contact Nima at Cho Oyu Trekking
NEPAL Dec 2011 The same two friends asked us to join them again to trek up the Khumbu to Tengboche below Everest and follow that with another trek in the Annapurna massif. Once again we had great weather (chilly at night of course) and met very few other trekkers. Cho Oyu Trekking organised everything superbly once again - definitely recommended!

NORWAY 2007 - The Troll Wall. See our guide to Classic Norway. Climbs, Scrambles and Walks in Romsdal, 2005, Cordee. Writing in the Alpine Club Newsletter, Anders Lundahl reports that following the many massive rock falls in the past 10 years, few routes have been climbed. Our 1965 route (The Rimmon Route) was altered considerably as were other nearby routes though the Swedish Route has been climbed since (2002 and 2003). Trollkjerringa is extremely loose in the upper pitches making a new line necessary at A2/3 (1999). Trolldom awaits a second ascent. Locals say the whole centre section of the wall is dangerous. The classic Nowegian Route on the left side of the wall is now graded 5.10. 2011, Tony's Troll Wall book (see publications) was published and is getting good reviews.
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